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The 5 Most Common Porsche Panamera Problems

January 12, 2022 by porsche 1 Comment

The Porsche Panamera was unveiled in 2009 with the first model years beginning in 2010. It’s often considered the long-awaited 989 concept vehicle from the 1980’s. Unlike many other Porsche models, the Panamera is a full-size luxury sedan with a front-engine layout. As such, it receives some disdain from Porsche purists. However, it’s still a great car that delivers a balance of performance and luxury. How does it hold up when it comes to reliability, though? In this article, we discuss Porsche Panamera problems, reliability, and more.

Porsche Panamera Models

It’s a bit challenging to tackle a holistic article about Porsche Panamera problems. As of today, the car is on its 2nd generation and 13th model year. There are also at least 10 engines and different variations within these. Point is – there is a lot to unpack with the Panamera. Let’s start with the basics:

970 Chassis G1 (2010-2016)
971 Chassis G2 (2017-present)

Again, current models are in their second generation. The first Panamera is known as the 970 chassis while the second gen is the 971 chassis. When relevant, we will specify if certain problems are more specific to one of these generations. We will also take the same approach with engine problems.

Panamera Engines

Porsche Panamera engines are extensive. There are NA, turbo, twin turbo, hybrid, and diesel engine options. Panamera engines are as follows:

970 Chassis G1

3.6L V6 NA
3.0L V6 turbodiesel
3.0L V6 supercharged + electric motor
4.8L V8
3.0L V6 twin turbo
4.8L V8 twin turbo

971 Chassis G2

3.0L V6 turbo
2.9L V6 twin turbo + electric motor
2.9L V6 twin turbo
4.0L V8 twin turbo
4.0L V8 twin turbo diesel
4.0 V8 twin turbo + electric motor

That’s quite the list of engines. We won’t bother breaking down models since that’s a lengthy list, too. Anyways, we will do our best to specify which engine problems affect certain engines more than others. With the basics out of the way let’s jump right into the bulk of this article and discuss Porsche Panamera problems & reliability.

Common Porsche Panamera Problems

Several of the most common Panamera problems include:

Rear spoiler malfunction
Water pump failure
Coolant leaks
PDK transmission issues
Carbon build-up

Throughout the rest of the article we will discuss these Porsche Panamera reliability problems in-depth. However, it’s important to add some quick notes before moving along. We are considering these among the most common Panamera issues. That doesn’t necessarily mean they are common in the true sense of the definition. Rather, when Panamera failures occur these are among the most common areas.

That said, the Panamera is a high-end vehicle with a lot of performance and luxury features. These are not cheap cars to own, especially as the accrue age and mileage. It’s important to discuss Porsche Panamera reliability as a whole, too. We revisit the Panamera reliability topic at the end of the article. For now, let’s jump in and discuss the above issues and failures.

1) Panamera 970 G1 Rear Spoiler Issues

Among the most common Panamera problems is the rear spoiler. The 970 chassis uses a hydrologic rear spoiler; there is a button to automatically raise or lower the spoiler. It also deploys on its own above 70mph to aid high-speed stability and handling. We think it’s a pretty cool feature, but it doesn’t come without its flaws.

If you notice the spoiler is lopsided, not working, or receive a “Failure Spoiler Control” on the dash then it’s time to look further into the issue. It’s common for the Panamera rear spoiler actuators to fail. As far as we are aware, Porsche does not supply any specific parts for the spoiler mechanism. Instead, they sell the part as a whole which can make it an expensive repair.

Fortunately, there are some aftermarket solutions. Tracking down the exact part that failed and sourcing it individually can save a lot of money on Panamera rear spoiler failures. Ultimately, this is a minor issue in the grand scheme if you take the extra time to find the right parts.

2) Porsche Panamera Water Pump Failure

Next up are water pump problems on the Porsche Panamera. It may affect certain engines more than others, but no Panamera engine is exempt from water pump failures. Worry not, though. This is a common problem on many engines in general. Anyways, there are several ways in which the water pump may fail.

One of the more common issues is a leak from the water pump gasket. It’s a thin rubber gasket that degrades over time and begins leaking coolant. Spoiler alert – this isn’t our main focus here since we are discussing Panamera coolant leaks next. Instead, we’re looking at coolant pump shaft issues.

Over time, the bearing within the support shaft wears down. This allows the Porsche Panamera water pump shaft to begin wobbling. There are a few potential symptoms for this, but overheating is a big one. Pay attention to engine temps since overheating can cause serious damage if you continue driving.

Water Pump Symptoms & Repair

Some potential symptoms of Porsche Panamera water pump problems include:

Overheating
Coolant leaks
Knocking/ticking sound
Steam from engine bay

When the water pump fails it may lead to overheating, which is a serious problem. At this point you should pull over as soon as it’s safe and have the vehicle towed. Overheating can lead to other problems like head gaskets and sometimes even more severe damage is possible.

A water pump failure may also cause coolant leaks, but that also might simply point to the gasket. Otherwise, look out for steam or slight knocking/ticking sounds. The noises may occur due to excess shaft play.

The coolant pump is generally easy to access on the Porsche Panamera engines. Still, repairs can be expensive due to high hourly labor costs and pricey parts. Also, consider replacing the thermostat as that is another potential failure point.

3) Panamera Coolant Leak Problems

Coolant leaks are yet another common issue on Panamera models. This ties into the above a little as water pump or water pump gasket failures may lead to coolant leaks. There are a few other trouble areas, though. Once again – certain engines may be more or less prone to coolant leaks but no Porsche engine is exempt.

One specific leak that mostly affects earlier 970 G1 Panamera models is the coolant distribution pipe. This plastic pipe runs from the thermostat housing to the coolant distribution housing. Over time, the plastic hose cracks and begins leaking coolant (normally between the engine and transmission). Porsche did update the part to an aluminum design to resolve the problem.

Another common area for leaks is the coolant Y pipe. On the Porsche Panamera this runs from the front of the engine back to a rubber hose at the rear of the engine. The plastic tube cracking is a widespread issue.

Porsche Coolant Leak Symptoms & Fix

Symptoms of coolant leaks are simple. If you notice puddles of coolant or steam from the engine bay then you may have a leak somewhere. Overheating is also a potential symptom, but you should notice a visible leak before the coolant gets too low.

Find a reputable, quality shop for repairs. Some coolant hoses are hard to access; there’s even one that Porsche recommends removing the transmission and engine. Good shops can do these repairs effectively without having to go to great lengths, which will save a lot on repairs.

4) PDK Transmission Failure

Some Panamera models feature the 7-speed PDK transmission. This stands for Porsche Doppelkupplungsgetriebe. What the heck is this? It essentially just means a dual-clutch transmission – or DCT for short. Not only is the PDK one confusing name, but it’s also prone to its share of problems.

A PDK has two sections: the rear section is like a manual and the front portion houses the dual clutch. There are a number of electronic and hydraulic controls in the dual clutch area, so this is where most PDK Panamera problems occur. The mechatronic unit and temperature sensor are two common failure points.

The mechatronic unit is mostly responsible for changing gears and features valves, electronics, and sensors. Symptoms can be pretty severe when failures occur within this unit. Other failures like the temperature sensor are usually less severe, but they can still be expensive repairs.

Chances are these PDK issues are blown out of proportion to some extent. Failures likely aren’t as common as the internet may suggest, but it’s a common topic since repairs can quickly add up to $5,000+.

Porsche Panamera PDK Symptoms & Repairs

Symptoms of a PDK transmission issues on the Porsche Panamera may include:

Rough shifts
Problematic shifts (not shifting, hanging gears, etc)
Slipping
Limp mode
Fault codes

The above symptoms are pretty straight-forward. If you’re noticing rough shifts, slipping gears, or just poor transmission operation in general then you may have a problem. Otherwise, your Panamera might go into limp mode and display error messages or fault codes.

Here is the real killer – a new PDK transmission can run $10,000+. The PDK transmission is serviceable, but make sure you find a quality shop that has experience with the transmissions. Mechatronic units can usually be found for less than $2,000, and labor costs shouldn’t be too bad.

5) Porsche Panamera Carbon Build-Up Problems

We will be pretty quick on the carbon build-up topic. It’s a hot topic for many direct injection (DI) engines. DI is great technology that improves emissions, power, and fuel economy. That sounds like a major win to us, but direct injection does have the concern around carbon build-up.

All engines produce some oil blow-by. It makes its way back into the intake ports where it often sticks to the back on intake valves. Traditional port injection sprays fuel into these ports and any deposits are washed away. However, with direct injection there isn’t any fuel flowing through the intake ports. As such, oil deposits harden and form carbon build-up.

Porsche did design the injectors to spray the back of the intake valves. It does certainly help mitigate Panamera carbon build-up concerns. However, some build-up will still occur on the intake ports over time. Porsche Panamera owners may consider walnut blasting the intake valves every 100,000 to 120,000+ miles. It may not be necessary but it’s good maintenance for what should be a $500-800 job.

Porsche Panamera Reliability

Is the Porsche Panamera reliable? There are a few ways to look at Panamera reliability. We would lean towards below average scores when considering the entire automotive market. However, for a high-performance luxury car we believe the Panamera earns average remarks.

A number of costly problems like the PDK transmission bring the Panamera down a bit. There are also a fair number of common Panamera problems. Many are pretty minor in the grand scheme, though. Keep in mind – we’re talking about a high-performance German car with an MSRP near $90,000 for base models.

The Panamera isn’t going to be a cheap car to own or maintain. When problems occur they’re generally more expensive to repair when compared to an average car. Basic maintenance like oil changes, tires, brakes, etc. is also more expensive. As the old saying goes, “you have to pay to play.” That does hold true for the Panamera.

What’s your experience with the Porsche Panamera? Are you considering one?

The 5 Most Common Porsche Macan Engine Problems

January 8, 2022 by porsche Leave a Comment

The Porsche Macan was released in 2014 under the 95B chassis code. It was originally named the Cajun, which represented “Cayenne Junior”. The Macan is a more compact and less expensive version of the Cayenne and shares the same chassis with Audi’s Q5. While the Macan received a facelift in 2021, it is still in its “first generation” with plans of a second generation EV launch in 2023.

Six different engines have been fitted to the Macan. The base models have a 2.0L turbocharged inline-4. Diesel variants included a 3.0L V6 turbo-diesel. Early Macan S and Macan GTS trims utilized a 3.0L V6 twin-turbo. Lastly, the Macan Turbo featured a 3.6L twin-turbo engine until 2020. In 2019 a single-turbo 3.0L V6 was introduced for the Macan S models. Lastly, in 2020 the GTS and Turbo models received a new 2.9L twin-turbo, which is also available for facelifted 2021 and newer Macan S models.

Despite the Porsche Macan receiving above average remarks for reliability there are a number of common problems that affect its engines. Since there are multiple engines in the Macan not all of these problems are applicable to each one. We will do our best to denote which problem is applicable to which Macan engine. Common Macan engine problems are less known for the single turbo 3.0L V6 and the twin-turbo 2.9L V6 engines since they are newer.

Porsche Macan Engine Problems

PDK Transmission Problems
Water Pump Failure
Thermostat Housing Leaks
Carbon Buildup
High Pressure Fuel Pump Failure

If you are considering a Porsche Macan, don’t let these engine problems turn you away. The Macan is generally considered very reliable and the majority of these issues, outside of carbon buildup and PDK issues, are isolated. Additionally, water pump, thermostat housings, and HPFP’s are common repair items that fail over time due to age and poor maintenance.

1. Macan PDK Transmission Problems

All Macan’s are fitted with Porsche’s 7-speed PDK transmission. PDK stands for Porsche Doppelkupplungsgetriebe which is essentially a fancy German term for dual-clutch transmission. The PDK transmission has two separate sections: a rear section that is considered manual, and the front section that houses the dual clutch. The dual clutch section is electronically and hydraulically controlled vs. the manual rear section, and therefore the majority of problems come from the front section.

The two most common failure points with the PDK transmission are the mechatronic unit, or valve body, and the transmission temperature sensor.

The mechatronic unit or valve body is responsible for changing gears. It is a complex part that includes hydraulic valves, various electronic components, and sensors. When the mechatronic unit fails you will experience rough shifting and difficulty in changing gears.

The second common failure point is the transmission temp sensor. This sensor monitors the temperature of the transmission as lots of heat and high temps can damage internal components. A bad temp sensor will through a check engine light and can cause the engine to enter limp mode in addition to causing rough shifting.

Symptoms of a Bad PDK Transmission

Rough shifting
Difficulty changing gears
Grinding during shifts
Limp mode
Gear slipping

PDK Replacement Options

A PDK transmission is actually relatively easy to take apart and fix. However, Porsche’s policy is to replace the PDK transmission instead of repair it. Unfortunately, a new PDK transmission from the dealer is going to run you $12k-$15k. Fortunately, the PDK is actually serviceable, for whatever reason Porsche just prefers to replace them.

If you have a bad temp sensor that is a cheap and easy fix. However, if you have a valve body (mechatronic) issue then things get slightly more complicated. If you take it to the Porsche dealership you will be told your only option is to replace the whole trans. Instead we recommend finding an independent Porsche specialist and have them replace the valve body only. New units cost around $1.5k-$2k, refurbished units can be found for around $800, or you can find a used one for $500 or less.

Have an independent repair shop swap the valve body. It will still cost you a few thousand dollars but it beats the five figures for a new transmission. It’s actually a relatively easy DIY as well if you have ample mechanic skills.

2. Porsche Macan Water Pump Failure

Most common on the 2.0L EA888 and 3.0L turbo engines and older Macan’s is water pump failure. Water pumps are responsible for pushing engine coolant throughout the engine and radiator to keep engine temperatures low. Water pumps are a normal wear and tear item and it is generally not common to see them fail prior to 80,000 miles. However, older vehicles that are low mileage can experience failure before this point as well.

Fortunately, most Porsche water pumps in the Macan are mechanically controlled instead of electronically. This makes them cheaper and easier to replace. Failure is most commonly attributed to the internal components of the water pump which wear down over time due to high pressures within the cooling system.

While this isn’t common on low mileage engines, the Porsche Macan has had some issues with coolant pipe failures in its earlier years. However, these were remedied and tend not to be a problem anymore.

Water Pump Failure Symptoms

Engine overheating
Whining noise coming from the water pump
Coolant leaks from water pump
Steam coming from engine/radiator

Water pump replacement is as simple as buying a new $100-$150 water pump and having it installed. If you do experience water pump failure do not drive your car. A bad water pump can lead to engine overheating and excess heat can cause catastrophic damage to internal engine components.

3. Macan Thermostat Housing Leaks

A coolant thermostat is responsible for controlling how much coolant is circulated back into the engine and how much is routed to the radiator prior to being recirculated. It helps keep the coolant within a specific temperature range. The thermostat sits within a housing that is made of plastic.

Thermostat housing leaks are most common on the 2.0L Ea888 engines. A poor design causes them to wear down a fail prematurely which causes coolant to leak out of the housing. Thermostat housing failure tends to occur around the 60,000 mile mark on Macan’s.

Fortunately, the part is only about $200 and can be replaced relatively easily. If you are replacing the housing it is also recommended to replace the thermostat at the same time. Additionally, replacing the water pump in conjunction with it is not uncommon.

Macan Thermostat Housing Leak Symptoms

Coolant leaking from housing
Engine overheating
Low coolant light warnings
Coolant leaking through weep hole

4. Porsche Macan Carbon Buildup

All Macan engines are direct injected instead of port injected. Port injection sprays fuel into the intake manifold where it is then sent into the engine cylinders. Direct injection uses extremely high pressure fuel injectors. Each cylinder has its own fuel injector which sprays the fuel directly into the combustion chamber.

Direct injected engines usually have more fueling related problems than port injected engines. This is because they require a high pressure fuel pump and fuel injectors. HPFP’s as well discuss next fail due to the high pressure and stress they are under. Additionally, fuel injectors are also very stressed parts and can easily become clogged or lose pressure and leak.

However, the “problem” that all direct injected vehicles face is carbon buildup. When fuel is injected into the intake ports it has a constant flow of air to keep the intake manifold clean of any fuel debris. However, when the fuel is injected directly into the engine it can coat the cylinder walls and intake ports with carbon deposits which is a buildup of insufficient fuel burning.

Symptoms of Carbon Buildup

Rough idling
Engine hesitation
Misfires
Slight power loss

Carbon buildup occurs over time rather than instantaneously. Therefore it can sometimes become hard to diagnose as the power loss experienced might not be noticeable. You usually won’t experience misfires or poor idling until the buildup becomes very excessive. This likely won’t occur until well beyond the 100,000 mile mark.

Therefore it is smart to have your engine “walnut blasted” every 80,000-100,000 miles to clear out the carbon buildup and restore engine performance. Walnut blasting costs about $500 and uses a shop vac to blow walnut shells through the intake ports to clear out all of the built up gunk.

5. Macan Diesel High Pressure Fuel Pump Failure

The Macan Diesel is prone to a number of fueling related failures such as HPFP and injector failure. As mentioned previously, direct injection engines use HPFPs to deliver highly pressurized fuel to the fuel injectors. Most diesel engines use a low pressure fuel pump (LPFP) to deliver fuel from the fuel tank to the HPFP. The HPFP then pressurizes it and sends it to the injectors.

Since the HPFP operates under very high pressures it is constantly under a lot of stress. This stress can wear down internal components of the pump and ultimately cause it to fail. This will result in inadequate levels of fuel being delivered to the cylinders and result in decreased performance, misfires, limp mode, etc. Additionally, the Macan Diesels also frequently experience failed fuel injectors.

Diesel fuel is less refined that traditional gasoline which means it is “dirtier” and more susceptible to picking up contaminants like water and dirt. This can cause dirty diesel fuel which wreaks havoc on fuel pumps and injectors. To prevent this the best thing to do is to only fill-up from good gas stations that sell a lot of diesel fuel. Diesel that sits in underground gas station holding tanks for too long can cause a lot of engine problems.

Macan Diesel HPFP and Injector Failure Symptoms

Low fuel pressure
Misfires
Rough idling
Lack of performance
Stuttering or engine shutting off while idling
Hesitant acceleration
Engine codes for running too lean

Porsche Macan Reliability

Overall, the Macan offers above average reliability. All of the gasoline engines are well built and generally problem free. The majority of the problems the Macan experiences are general wear and tear items like water pumps, thermostat housings, and carbon buildup. None of these issues are material enough to cause any concern to a potential buyer.

The most problematic item across all of the engines is the PDK transmission. However, this problem isn’t super common. Instead it is a bit more overhyped online simply due to the fact that replacing a PDK transmission is so expensive, and is what Porsche recommends. Opting for a non-dealer repair can make this a lot more affordable. But overall, a bad PDK transmission isn’t that common or concerning.

150,000-200,000 miles isn’t unrealistic for a Macan. However, proper and regular maintenance is the most important thing.

As mentioned above, the 2.9L twin-turbo engine and the single turbo 3.0L V6 are newer Macan engines and therefore haven’t been on the road long enough for us to call any problems “common”. But overall, they seem very reliable so far.

Macan Diesel Reliability

The Macan Diesel is slightly less reliable than the gasoline engines. Newer models tend to be more reliable as some of the problem areas have been fixed. Overall, these engines have very differing opinions with cases of them both being very reliable or very unreliable.

Diesel versions of the Macan are prone to experience failure of the HPFP, fuel injectors, diesel particulate filters, heater core, and glow plugs.

Porsche M96 vs M97 Engine

November 12, 2021 by porsche 1 Comment

The Porsche M96 vs M97 engine differences are actually a hotly debated topic. Which cars use the M97 vs M96 and which engines have the fixed IMS bearing are two of the more controversial subjects. We’ll start off by covering the basics on each of the engines, the differences between the two, reliability & problems, and so on. And then we’ll provide our well-researched opinion on the IMS bearing and for what years it was “fixed”.

Both the M96 and M97 are engine families rather than specific engines. The M96 is the earlier version and was produced from 1996 through model year 2007. In model year 2005 the M97 engine started to make an entrance, phasing out the M96 engine. Additionally, both of these engines are used in the 986 & 987 Boxster’s and 996 & 997 Carerra 911’s. The M97 engine was also put into the 987 Cayman starting in model year 2007.

Porsche M96 Engine

The M96 made its introduction in 1996 as a 2.5L flat-six in the Boxster 986. Throughout its heyday from 1996-2005 it powered the Boxster (986 and 987) and Carrera 911 (996 and 997) vehicles. Impressively enough, the M96 came in 5 different engine sizes. The Porsche Boxtser vehicles had three options, a 2.5L, 2.7L, and 3.2L flat-six engine. The 911’s were equipped with larger 3.2L, 3.4L, and 3.6L flat-six options.

The 2.5L engine was only used from 1997-1999. The engine block was poorly designed and Porsche had some quality control issues in the factory that were leading to cracked cylinder liners. The 2.7L entered in 1999 as a replacement for the 2.5L. The 3.2L option was offered along side these smaller engines for “S” series cars.

The M96 engine receives a lot of criticism due to IMS bearing (intermediate shaft) failures, rear main seal leaks, and cylinder cracking. We’ll discuss these in more depth below.

Porsche M97 Engine

Similar to the M96 engine, the M97 is a 24-valvve water-cooler flat-6. However, while the engine was built off of the same platform as the M96 it features a number of differences that we’ll cover below. The M97 was produced in 2.7L, 3.4L, 3.6L, 3.8L, and 4.0L engine sizes.

Starting in mid-2005 the 997 Carerra S began receiving the M97 engine. Until 2008 the base model 911 Carerra’s used the M96 engine which was eventually phased out in 2009 by the direct-injected MA1 engine. Both the 987 base Boxster and S series had the M96 engine in it until 2007 when they received the newer M97 engine.

The IMS bearing was purportedly fixed for the M97 engine. While failure can still happen and some people still have concerns with the bearing, the failure rate is lower than on the earlier M96 engines. However, M97 IMS bearing failure is a lot more costly as it requires the majority of the engine to be taken apart to get to it.

M96 vs M97 Engine Differences

Although these two engines are very similar in nature there are some important differentiations. We’ll cover the big differences here and then provide some thoughts on the IMS bearings between the two since that is a debated topic.

Increased Displacement

The first and most noticeable difference is that the M97 is a larger engine. While the Boxsters with the M97 still received 2.7L that was used in the base model, the Boxster S 3.2L was increased to a 3.4L, increasing power from 276hp to 291hp. The 2.7L received a small 5hp increase. When the 987 Cayman was released in 2007 it followed the same 2.7L base model and 3.4L S model structure.

For the 911 Carerra, the M97 was also still produced in a 3.6L size, similar to the M96. S models however did receive a larger 3.8L engine. And a 4.0L engine was produced specifically for the GT3 RS 4.0.

Displacement was increased by boring out the cylinders and fitting in larger pistons. Overall, the S models received larger engines while the base models kept the same sizes as the M96 predecessor with only minor power increases.

Adjusted Timing

Aside from the larger displacement, the timing was adjusted to create a smoother torque curve and to handle the power increases caused by the larger engine sizes. However, the intake and exhaust valves remain very similar to the M96 in terns of lift and sizing.

Jet Pump to Mechanical Pump

The brake booster vacuum pump for the M96 was a “suction jet pump”. The details of how jet pumps work are rather technical, so you can read about it here if you’re intrigued. The M97 received an upgraded pump and switched from the suction jet design to a mechanical pump. Avoiding the technical differences, the mechanical pump provides more consistent vacuum supply and therefore a more consistent braking experience, especially when at altitude or when driving aggressively such as on a track.

Electronic Oil Level Sensor

The only way to check oil levels on the M96 engine is by pulling out the dipstick. It had no electronic oil monitoring. The M97 added electronic oil level monitoring so that you could see at all time where oil levels were at, the temperature of the oil, and oil usage. While not a major change oil level monitoring is a good feature to have to prevent serious engine damage from running low on oil. It is also helpful for detecting leaks.

M96/M97 IMS Bearing Upgrade

This topic is where the debate begins. We’ve done a lot of research on IMS bearings and will provide what we believe to be an accurate assessment.

From 1997 until early 2005 the M96 engine used two different IMS bearing designs: the dual-row 5204 bearing and the single-row 6204 bearing. The 5204 bearing was used until early 2000 when it was replaced with the 6204 bearing. The bearing seals on the 5204 bearing deteriorated over time leading to failure. Failure was most commonly associated with age of the bearing and not necessarily mileage on the engine.

Porsche changed the design in early 2000 due to failures and problems with the 5204 bearing. However, the single-row 6204 design is actually considered the least reliable of them all. So, in early 2005 a larger single-row 6305 bearing was introduced. It was bigger and stronger but still not bulletproof, albeit it is considered the strongest of the three.

So, Porsche fixed the majority of the IMS bearing issues in early 2005, although 2005+ IMS bearings are still susceptible to failure. But the number of cases of IMS bearing failures with the 6305 is a lot less than the predecessors.

So, which Porsche engines have the “fixed” IMS bearing?

Since the 6305 bearing wasn’t fitted until some time in the earlier part of 2005, there are some very early M97 engines that still have the bad 6204 bearings. The bearings were also upgraded for the M96 engine at the same time.

So, there are both M96 and M97 engines with old and new bearings on them. Anything with a build date of mid-2005 or later should have the better IMS bearing whereas anything before that will have the worst of the three. It isn’t clear exactly when the switch took place so it is difficult to say whether engines with early 2005 build dates have the new or old bearings.

The downside to the M97 engine’s IMS bearing is that it requires a complete teardown to access it, whereas you only need to remove the flywheel on the M96 engine to access it. While M97 IMS bearing failure is a lot less likely, it is a lot more costly to fix if it does break.

Porsche M96 vs M97 Reliability

The most common M96 engine problems are IMS bearing failure, rear main seal oil leaks, cracked cylinders, and cylinder scoring. Unfortunately, the problems that are common with this engine are on the more expensive side to fix. IMS bearing and rear main seal issues are most common in old cars that haven’t been driven frequently and spent a long time sitting. So while a nice super low mileage M96 might sound tempting, the RMS and IMS are probably ticking time bombs. Fortunately, the IMS bearing can be preventively fixed. We’d give the M96 an average grade for reliability without the IMS fix, and slightly above average when it is fixed.

The vast majority of the M97 engines have the improved IMS bearing which gives this engine a leg up in reliability over the M96. Common M97 engine problems are cylinder scoring, cam solenoid failure, and coolant pipe failure. Most of the reliability issues with the M97 stem from the engine overheating and causing cooling system failures. When properly maintained and cared for, the M97 engine offers solid reliability.

Overall, the M97 is considered to be more reliable than the M96, predominantly since there are a lot less M97’s out there with the old IMS bearings. A 2005+ M96 will be pretty comparable to the M97 in terms of reliability since both with have the stronger and improved bearing.

Porsche’s are unfortunately very expensive to fix. And in terms of reliability costs, the M96 wins since it is a bit cheaper and easier to service compared to the M97. Overall, these are both great engines. But proper maintenance and care is vital for them to remain reliable.

The 6 Most Common Porsche 955/957/958 Cayenne Engine Problems

November 1, 2021 by porsche 2 Comments

Porsche’s Cayenne made its introduction back in 2002 and is still being produced today. There have been three generations since its introduction. The first-generation, often referred to as the 9PA Cayenne or the Porsche 955, was built on the Volkswagen Group PL71 platform and ran from 2003 – 2010. The second-generation, often referred to as the 92A Cayenne, was built on the Volkswagen Group PL72 platform and ran from 2011 – 2018. And lastly, the third-generation, often referred to as the 9YO Cayenne, was built on the Volkswagen Group MLB Evo platform and started production in 2018 and is still being produced today.

An interesting fact about the Porsche Cayenne, is that it holds a Guinness World Record for the heaviest aircraft, 265-ton Air France Airbus A380, pulled by a production car. As many can imagine, Porsche produced many trims of the Porsche Cayenne: Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne S Hybrid, Cayenne S E-Hybrid, Cayenne GTS, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S, Cayenne Turbo S E-Hybrid, Cayenne Turbo GT, Cayenne Diesel, and Cayenne S Diesel. With all of these trims, there are also many different engines.

First Generation Porsche 955/957 Cayenne Engines

The first generation came with 11 different engines but we will try to compact the information as much as possible. The Base Cayenne came with a 3.2L VR6 engine that put down anywhere from 247hp – 286hp & 229lb-ft – 284lb-ft of torque. The S came with a 4.5L V8 engine that put down 335hp – 399hp & 310lb-ft – 369lb-ft. The GTS came with a 4.8L V8 that put down 399hp and 369lb-ft of torque. The Turbo came with a twin-turbo 4.8L V8 & a twin-turbo 4.5L V8 that put down anywhere from 444hp – 493hp & 457lb-ft – 516lb-ft of torque. The Turbo S featured a twin-turbo 4.5L V8 that put down anywhere from 513hp – 542hp & 531lb-ft – 553lb-ft of torque. Lastly, the diesel featured a 3.0L V6 engine that put down 237hp & 406lb-ft of torque.

Second Generation Porsche 958 Cayenne Engines

The second generation came with even more engines coming in at 16. The Base Cayenne came with a 3.6L VR6 engine that put down anywhere from 296hp & 295 lb-ft of torque. The Cayenne S came with a 4.8L V8 NA engine that put out 395hp and 369lb-ft of torque and a twin-turbo 3.6L V6 that put down 414hp & 369lb-ft. The GTS featured a NA 4.8L V8 that put down 414hp & 380lb-ft and a twin-turbo 3.6L V6 that put down 434hp & 443lb-ft of torque. The Turbo and Turbo S featured a twin-turbo 4.8L V8 that put down anywhere from 493hp – 562hp & 516lb-ft – 590lb-ft of torque. The Diesel had a single-turbo 3.0L V6 that put down anywhere from 237hp – 258hp & 406lb-ft – 428lb-ft of torque. Lastly, the Cayenne S Diesel featured a twin-turbo 4.1L V8 that put down 380hp & 627lb-ft of torque.

Third Generation Porsche 9YA or P0536 Cayenne Engines

And finally, the third generation had fewer engines. The base Cayenne features a single-turbo 3.0L V6 that puts down 335hp & 332lb-ft of torque. The Cayenne S featured a twin-turbo 2.9L V6 that puts down 434hp & 406lb-ft of torque. The GTS & Turbo features a twin-turbo 4.0L V8 that puts down anywhere from 434hp – 454hp & 406lb-ft – 457lb-ft of torque. The Turbo S E-Hybrid features a twin-turbo 4.0L V8 PHEV that puts down anywhere from 671hp – 690hp & 642lb-ft – 664lb-ft of torque. Lastly, the all-new Cayenne Turbo GT features a twin-turbo 4.0L V8 that puts down 631hp & 626lb-ft of torque.

Common Porsche Cayenne Engine Problems

Before getting into the Porshe Cayenne engine problems, we want to preface that since there are a lot of engines, we will try to differentiate which generation has the most common problem listed below. Also, for the replacement parts linked below, please make sure they fit your vehicle if you have to order them. If not, let us know in the comments and we will assist in any way possible.

Ignition coil or spark plug failure
Faulty fuel pump
Thermostat failure
Plastic coolant lines – 2011-2019 V8
Transfer case failure
Cam adjuster bolt failure – 2010 – 2012 V8

1. Ignition Coil or Spark Plug Failure

Premature ignition coil or spark plug failure is common in many Porsche engines. Therefore, this problems is not solely associated to a specific Cayenne. Spark plugs need high voltage electricity to be able to create a “spark” in the combustion chamber initiating engine combustion. Ignition coils receives lower voltage electricity from the battery and transforms it into the higher voltage spark plugs need.

There are two main reasons why ignition coils and spark plugs fail: normal wear and tear or modifying an engine. Modifying an engine and creating more power will put more heat and stress on the coils and plugs, which often will cause a couple to fail instantly. When they do fail, there will be misfires in the specific cylinder with the faulty coil or plug. Most ignition coils and spark plugs SHOULD last 60,000 miles or more. However, we’ve seen some last 5,000 miles and some last 80,000 miles.

Symptoms of Ignition Coil or Spark Plug Failure:

CEL/MIL illuminating
Engine misfires with fault codes P0300 – P0308
Poor engine performance
Issues starting the engine
Engine surging or stalling

Ignition Coil and Spark Plug Replacement Options:

When an ignition coil or spark plug does happen to go out, we advise replacing all of them while you’re at it to avoid future misfire headaches down the road. Ignition coil and spark plug replacement is not the toughest DIY if you have the proper tools and know the location of the coils. A mechanic or local dealer would likely charge anywhere from $450 – $600 to replace both the coils and spark plugs.

Ignition Coil Pack Replacement: https://amzn.to/3mwwEuH
DIY Difficulty: Easy

2. Faulty Fuel Pump

When we mention fuel pumps, we’re referencing both older low pressure fuel pumps and newer high-pressure fuel pumps, or HPFP. Older 955 Cayenne’s have two pumps low pressure (in-tank) fuel pumps, while newer 958/9YA Cayenne’s have a HPFP (or high-pressure fuel pump) because of direct injection. Low pressure fuel pumps are located in the fuel tank, while the HPFP is typically mounted on the left side cam. A fuel pump pumps fuel from the fuel tank and sends it to the engine. A HPFP on newer Cayenne’s pumps high-pressure fuel into the direct injection system.

The low pressure fuel pumps tend to fail because the pump itself tends to overheat and shut off. The HPFP tends to fail because something inside the pump comes apart or the valve on top of the pump can fail. When either fail, expect engine sputters, misfires, and poor engine performance. Typically, fuel pumps fail at least once in a vehicle’s lifecycle.

Symptoms of Fuel Pump Failure:

Whining noise coming from the fuel tank
Difficulty starting the engine
Engine surges, sputters, or stalls
Engine dying
Decreased fuel economy
Poor engine performance while accelerating

Fuel Pump Replacement Options:

When a fuel pump, whether it be the low pressures or high pressure, goes bad, 9/10 times they will have to be replaced. There are times when you can just replace a gasket on the HPFP if it is leaking, but this is not too common. If a low pressure fuel pump happens to go out, we highly suggest replacing both and the associated filter. Replacing either the HPFP or the low pressure fuel pumps is not the easiest DIY unless you know where they are located. A mechanic will likely charge around $1,200 depending on which pumps are being replaced.

DIY Difficulty: Difficult

3. Thermostat Failure

Thermostat failure, like ignition coils and spark plugs, is common in many other Porsche engines. A thermostat controls the amount of coolant that is recirculated back into the engine and how much coolant is cooled by the radiator before recirculating. There are a few reasons why a thermostat can fail: being stuck ope, being stuck closed, or gasket failure. When it does fail, the engine temps will be high, which will lead to the engine overheating.

Symptoms of Thermostat Failure:

High engine temps
Low coolant indicator illuminating
Engine overheating
Sporadic temperature readings on the dash
Improper coolant flow

Thermostat Replacement Options:

Typically when a thermostat fails, we would advise replacing the water pump as well because typically these go out around the same time. Also, because they are right next to each other. We classified the DIY as difficult, because both the thermostat and water pump are rather hard to get to. However, there are many video tutorials online if you are trying to save some labor costs. A mechanic or dealer will more than likely charge $1,000 to replace only the thermostat.

DIY Difficulty: Difficult

4. Plastic Coolant Lines or Epoxy Failure

For some reason, Porsche decided to put plastic coolant pipes in Cayenne engines. Specifically, there is a lawsuit against Porsche for all 2011 – 2019 V8 958 Cayenne’s. Coolant pipes moves coolant from the radiator to the hottest part of the engine and back to the radiator to cool off before going through the same process over and over again.

The coolant pipes are located below the intake manifold, which is not the coldest place for plastic components to be. The pipes and epoxy tend to fail over time because of all the heat they endure. When they do fail, whether it be the epoxy or the pipes, steam will more than likely start coming out of the engine and the engine could die.

Symptoms of Plastic Coolant Lines or Epoxy Failure:

Low coolant indicator illuminating
Steam coming from the engine
Difficulty starting the engine
Engine overheating
Loss of engine power
Engine dying

Plastic Coolant Lines Replacement Options:

When the epoxy degrades over time or the plastic coolant pipes start to wear, the only thing to do is to replace them. You can try adding more epoxy on the ends, but we highly don’t recommend doing so. When replacing, we highly advise using aluminum pipes to avoid the plastic ones from going out again. The pipes are a little difficult to get to, but there are plenty of tutorials online explaining the DIY, so it isn’t too hard. Since Porsche, as of writing this, doesn’t cover this repair, you will likely have a dealership charge $3,500 to replace the plastic pipes with alluminum coolant pipes.

DIY Difficulty: Intermediate

5. Transfer Case Failure

The most common model year for transfer case failure is 2012, but that certainly is not the only Cayenne that experiences transfer case failure. This is typically found in Cayenne’s with 4WD. A transfer case attaches to the transmission and connects the front a rear drive axles of a 4WD vehicle and it routes torque from the transmission to the axles.

These prematurely fail due to normal wear and tear. When they fail, it causes a miscalculation from the intended wheel speed versus the actual wheel speed. This was such a big issue that Porsche extended the warranty period for the factory transfer cases’ because after many attempts to remedy the faulty transfer cases’, they are still an issue. Typically, transfer cases should not fail at all on a vehicle’s lifecycle.

Symptoms of Transfer Case Failure:

Sporadic acceleration
Vibrations while accelerating
Engine jerking
Difficulty switching gears
Grinding, howling, or humming noise coming from the engine
4WD not engaging

Transfer Case Replacement Options:

When a transfer case wears, the only option is to replace it. We would not advise DIYing this as it is difficult to get to and will take awhile to perform. Unfortunately, Porsche is not covering the cost of transfer case replacement after the extended warranty expires. Customers have been seen to pay an absurd amount to replace the transfer case of up to $5,500 mainly due to the cost of the replacement part.

DIY Difficulty: Difficult

6. Camshaft Actuator Failure

Camshaft actuator failure is common in 2010 – 2012 958 Cayenne’s with a V8. However, the problem is not the camshaft actuator itself, it is the bolts securing the timing chain sprockets. A camshaft actuator is located at the end of the camshaft and it controls the speed of the opening or closing of the poppet valves, which enables engine timing to be more precise. The camshaft actuator bolts hold the camshaft actuator in place.

When the bolts for the camshaft actuator fall off, engine timing is thrown off and the engine will run very roughly. The bolts should not break at all in any engine nowadays. This was such a problem that Porsche actually issued a recall on 2010 – 2012 Cayenne’s to correct the bolts.

Symptoms of Camshaft Actuator Failure:

Poor engine performance
Engine stalls
Engine timing off
CEL or MIL illuminating with a P0340 or more camshaft related fault codes
Rough idle
Decreased fuel efficiency

Camshaft Actuator Replacement Options:

If you happen to own a 958 Cayenne and haven’t had this issue yet, we highly advise replacing the associated bolts to avoid the adjuster failing. As you can imagine, this is also not an easy DIY as you have to take many components out of the engine to get to the bolts. If you have a 2010 – 2012 Cayenne, make sure to check if these have been changed and if not, it should be covered under Porsche. If you don’t have a 2010 – 2012, unfortunately, you will more than likely have to pony up anywhere from $2,000 – $5,000 depending on if there is major engine damage.

DIY Difficulty: Difficult

Porsche Cayenne Reliability

Overall, we aren’t going to sugarcoat it, Porsche Cayenne’s reliability is below average compared to its competitors. However, some model years, specifically 2014 & 2016-2017, are tainting this overall rating. The good news is the 2021 Porsche Cayenne has a J.D. Power reliability rating of 81 out of 100. A good rule of thumb would be to avoid the early model years of all the generations to avoid the initial hiccups. With all of that said, we have seen many Porsche Cayenne’s last well over 200,000 miles with proper maintenance.

If you want to read up on more Porsche content, here’s our write-up on “The 4 Most Common Porsche M97 Engine Problems”.

Porsche 944 Performance Mods & Upgrades

October 27, 2021 by porsche 3 Comments

The Porsche 944 was produced from 1982 until 1991. Unlike traditional Porsche’s, the 944 is a front-engine design. For model year 1992 the 944 received numerous updates and a new design which prompted Porsche to rebrand the car the Porsche 968. The 944 and 968 share about 20% of the same parts.

The 944 came in three different trims: the base model 944, the 944 Turbo, and the 944 S. The 944S model received an update in 1989, dubbed the 944 S2. Additionally, cabriolet versions were produced for the S2 and Turbo.

Throughout it’s 9 year production history, four different engines were used. Three were naturally aspirated and came in 2.5L, 2.7L, and 3.0L sizes. The 2.5L I4 was the base model engine producing 143-161hp and was also used in the first 944 S models from 1987-1989 which produced 187hp due to a new 4-valve design. The 2.7L is a rare engine used only in 1989 base models. The 944 S models from 1989 onwards, dubbed the 944 S2, received a larger 3.0L engine which output 208hp. And lastly, the 944 Turbo models all received a 2.5L I4 equipped with a turbocharger, producing 217-247hp.

This guide is going to cover the best performance mods for the Porsche 944. It will be more geared towards the base 2.5L engines. While power gains will vary slightly for NA models, the recommended modifications and performance upgrades are the same for the 2.7 and 3.0 models as well.

Porsche 944 NA Mods

Headers
Upgraded camshaft
High-flow cat or cat-delete
MAF conversion
ECU tune
Throttle response cam

Ultimately, mods don’t do too much for the 944 NA 2.5 which is why we only recommend a few of them. A bit later down we’re going to cover some more advanced mods at a high level that can get your NA 944 above the 200hp mark. But note these are very advanced and expensive mods which is why we aren’t going to recommend them here. However, this wouldn’t be a complete guide without giving you a flavor of other possible 2.5L NA mods.

Rather than dumping significant amounts of money into power-adding mods, most enthusiasts recommend spending the money on suspension, handling, and weight reduction mods.

1) 944 NA Header Upgrade

Headers are the first component of the exhaust system and also tend to be one of the most restrictive components. On the earlier year 8-vavle 2.5’s, headers don’t provide a ton of performance value as their stock headers aren’t quite as restrictive considering less valves and lower power. On the 1987-1989 16-valve engines the headers gains are more meaningful.

Headers increase power by reducing backpressure in the exhaust system. Backpressure causes exhaust gases to seep back into the combustion chamber and therefore increase air temps and decrease the amount of oxygen in the chamber. The second benefit is through weight reduction. A set of aftermarket headers will shave off about 10lbs. of weight.

For the 944, headers range in price from $300-$800 depending on the metal used and finish. Most of the brands offered will provide the same performance benefit but lower quality metals can rust and crack so we recommend a good 304 stainless steel option.

Header Upgrade Benefits

~2whp for 8v 944’s and similar torque gains
~8whp for 16v 944’s and similar torque gains
Decreased backpressure
Slightly louder exhaust note
Better throttle response

2) Porsche 944 Camshaft Upgrades

Camshaft upgrades aren’t necessarily the most beginner friendly mod but do offer some decent gains for the 944. The gains here are realized from going with a more aggressive cam grind. Cams with more aggressive profiles have longer duration and higher lifts which open the valves further and keep them open longer.

Cam selection is a bit more of an advanced topic so we’re going to stay away from covering it in this article and instead focus on the performance gains an upgraded cam can provide on the Porsche 944. However, gains ultimately depend on the cam you choose and other mods present on the car. On the downside of cam upgrades is the higher RPM’s it causes result in added heat and engine stress

944 NA Camshaft Upgrade Benefits

~5-10whp gains (not necessarily peak)
Improved low end torque
Better throttle response

3) High-Flow Cat or Cat Delete

Between the headers and the cat-back portion of the exhaust sits the catalytic converter, or cat. The cat is generally the most restrictive exhaust component and therefore creates the most backpressure. Similar to headers, upgrading the stock cat reduces backpressure in the exhaust system and therefore improves power.

You have two options: replace the stock cat with a high-flow cat, or completely delete the cat itself. Deleting the cat is technically illegal but reduces backpressure the most and therefore offers better power gains. Keeping the cat keeps the car legal and is less harmful to the environment but offers less gains since it is still somewhat restrictive. However, due to the age of these cars you might be exempt from emissions testing in the first place depending on where you live.

A high flow cat will provide about 5whp gains whereas completely deleting it can provide closer to 10whp gains. One other consideration is that deleting the cat and using a “test pipe” is a lot cheaper since it doesn’t have the catalytic converter which uses exotic metals inside.

The remaining cat-back portion of the exhaust can be upgraded as well but provides pretty negligible power gains which is why we mostly recommend the header and cat pipe mods.

Porsche 944 High Flow Cat & Test Pipe Mod Benefits

~5whp for high-flow cats
~10whp for cat-delete aka test pipes
Louder exhaust note (only noticeable if cat is deleted)
Reduced exhaust backpressure
Lower exhaust gas temps

4) Porsche 944 MAF Conversion

Along with a cat-delete an MAF conversion is probably among the best Porsche 944 mods on this list. The stock air system uses an air-flow-meter (AFM) which is highly restrictive. This mod deletes the AFM and converts the car to a mass-air-flow sensor driven air intake system. In addition to significantly improving airflow it also allows for more precise air-to-fuel ratios creating more power and smoother power curve.

The one downside to the 944 MAF mod is that you need an 1985/2 or later DME. The 24 pin DME chip needs to be converted to a 28-pin and unfortunately the 1985/1 and earlier DME’s have the chip soldered into place whereas the later years are plug and play. Modification of the DME is required so that the DME understands the conversion from AFM to MAF.

Here is an example of a kit from one of the best on the market, Lindsey Racing MAF Kit.

MAF Conversion Benefits

5%-10% power gains (approx. 10-15whp gains)
Increased air flow, less restriction
More linear power delivery
AFRs adjust to improve power gains from other mods

5) Porsche 944 DME Tune / Chip

The stock DME isn’t optimally tuned, especially when the 944 is modded. One of the best way to get a healthier engine and increase power is through tuning the DME. There are a few options here. First, you can get a dyno tune done by someone who can tune the stock DME. Second, you can get a standalone DME. Or third, you can “chip” the DME.

Finding a tuner who can play with the stock DME is difficult. Standalone is an option but they are $800+ and likely still requires some custom tuning to it. Therefore, our favorite option is chipping it considering it costs about $250. Getting a standalone is a great mod but we’re not sure it’s worth the cost unless you need extra customizability and all the additional benefits they offer.

For chipping, similar to the last mod you need an ’85/2 or later DME since it requires swapping out the chip inside of it. On the 2.5 NA 8v the Lindsey Racing chip is good for 7whp peak gains with maximum gains of about 12whp in the upper rev range.

944 NA Chipping Benefits

7whp peak gains
12whp max gains
Smoother power curve
Overall healthier engine

6) 944 Throttle Response Cam

We’ll keep this one brief since the mod is super simple and very inexpensive, albeit it does not provide any power gains. The throttle on the 944 is opened via a cam and wire. The stock cam comes in a funky shape with an outward arm that causes the cam to turn slower for the first 1/3 of the throttle. This means that the throttle opens more slowly when your foot is initially pressing down on the gas pedal.

This decreases acceleration and throttle response. For $30 you can get a round throttle response cam that opens 1:1 with your foot on the gas pedal. While this doesn’t increase power it has a huge impact on throttle response. Better throttle response equals faster acceleration. Overall, it’s one of the best mods at making your car feel a little more alive and a bit faster off the line. Installing the part takes about 5 minutes, and at $30, why not?

Should I just buy an S2 or 944 Turbo?

Most people on the forums will tell you to buy a Turbo or a 3.0L S2 engine and swap it into your 944, or just buy the whole car. The base model 944’s with the 2.5L can get to around 230whp but this requires about $7,500 in mods which is about what it costs to buy a 944 Turbo or S2 in the first place. With that being said, this guide is going to cover some basic bolt-on mods to make some modest power improvements.

If you are chasing 200+hp on a base 944 then I would also agree with selling your car and buying a Turbo or S2. Doing so on the NA 2.5L will require cam, lifter, piston, valve spring, porting, etc. etc. which is quite a bit of work and not cheap. Since these are more advanced engine mods we aren’t going to cover them in this guide but will lay them out in a section below.

Base 944’s today are going anywhere from $5k-$10k. S2 models are in the $10k-$20k range and turbo models go anywhere from the upper teens to $30k+. If you just want a 944 for fun and don’t care about performance then go for it. But if performance is a factor for you and you plan on adding mods, an S2 944 is going to be cheaper than getting a base 2.5 NA and modding it to the power levels of the S2. And same goes for getting an S2 vs. a Turbo.

Porsche 944 Advanced Mods for 200hp+

If money isn’t a factor and you want to max out the 944 2.5L NA, then here is a list of all the things you’re going to need to do. Everything on this list is going to run you about $10k-$15k and will get you around the 225-230whp mark. You will be putting out pretty close to 944 Turbo levels, but to really surpass those you’re then going to need to add a turbo which isn’t really ever done.

Turbo kits aren’t a thing unfortunately so you need to build it all in house. And you’re not going to find many people who have tried. The ones that have tried have spent more money doing it than it would cost to buy a 944 turbo itself. Here is some helpful information for the curious, though.

Anyways, here is our list of things you’ll need to push the 230whp mark on an NA Porsche 944.

Built Motor
- Pistons, rings, wrist pins, valves, springs, lifters, camshaft, crankshaft, etc.
Block Upgrades
- Bored and strengthened, main saddle upgrade, ported combustion chamber, main caps strengthened
Cylinder head strengthened
Lightweight flywheel
Stroker kit
Headers and high-flow cat
Tune / engine management

2.5L Porsche 944 NA Mods Summary

The 6 mods listed in this guide will give you a nice 30-40whp gains. However, getting there will cost you somewhere around $2,000 to $4,000 depending on the products you choose. This isn’t necessarily expensive but it’s also not cheap when considering the initial cost of a 944 today and the cost relative to just buying an S2 or Turbo. Also, for what it’s worth, a lot of people will argue and claim that these mods we listed will get you more like 10whp.

For someone just looking for a bit more power out of the 2.5L, headers and a cat delete, an ECU chip, MAF conversion, and throttle response cam are great options. Upgrading the cam itself is a bit more of an advanced topic and can have an impact on lifters, springs, etc.

If you want to spend $5k+ you can get to 200whp with a few additional mods. And if you want to then spend another $10k+ you can get to 230whp or so which is considered pretty much maxed out for the 2.5 NA 944. Anything beyond that will require a turbo as well but adding one is quite challenging and not really worth the cost.

With all this being said, adding a few of the less expensive mods like a chip and cat delete and spending the rest of your money on weight reduction and handling mods is probably the best option. Or just save up a little bit more money and buy an S2 or Turbo instead if power matters to you.

Overall these are fun cars but the power potential is limited and doing anything about it is expensive. What has your experience been like with modding the Porsche 944?